Churchill, Canada
The self-appointed title of “Polar Bear Capital of the World”, is worn with pride by the residents of Churchill, a town that becomes a polar bear hotspot every winter when Hudson Bay freezes over. With a surface area of some 470,000 square miles and shorelines in no fewer than four Canadian provinces – Nunavut, Manitoba, Ontario and Quebec – the frozen Hudson Bay provides a crucial habitat corridor for Canada’s polar bears when temperatures plummet.
As autumn begins to fade, the bears’ migration begins. The animals move towards the shore from further inland, waiting for the Bay to freeze and allow them access to their winter feeding grounds further north, where countless seal breathing holes await. This leads to a large number of bears congregating in the area around Churchill, meaning that – if arriving at the right time of year – a Churchill trip is the closest you’ll get to a guaranteed polar bear sighting.
The ease with which one can hopefully see a polar bear here is mirrored by the relatively painless transport links. There may not be any roads that connect Churchill to other towns and cities in Canada, but it’s no more than a 2-hour flight away from Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba Province. Our shortest Churchill trips are also just 6 days long – great for travellers with limited time.
Churchill also caters to those with limited mobility, as very little walking will be required during your stay. In fact, exploring by foot is actually discouraged, as polar bears are not an uncommon sight even within the town itself; all bear viewing is conducted in specially built tundra buggies. The high concentration of bears in and around Churchill has even given rise to the first ever polar bear “jail”, where troublesome polar bears, at first tranquilised to ensure the safety of the bear and the town’s residents, are held in one of 27 secure cells before being relocated elsewhere.
With little freedom to explore the town or surrounding area outside of organised activities, Churchill does not offer the best experience for those seeking a touch of adventure. The stark expanses of tundra and elevated position of the tundra buggies do not lend themselves particularly well to photography, while the hotel options here in this remote location will not set the world alight. However, if you’re looking for the best possible chance of polar bear encounters without having to travel a great distance or expend a great deal of effort, Churchill is a fantastic option, and what’s more, you may even be able to witness the Northern Lights here – not a bad combo for somewhere below the Arctic Circle.
Baffin Island, Canada
Across Hudson Bay and around 1,000km from Churchill lies Baffin Island, the fifth-largest island in the world, which sits astride the Arctic Circle at the entrance to the Bay. For centuries, Western explorers attempted to navigate Canada’s ice-choked waters in search of the Northwest Passage, a proposed sea route that would connect Europe with Asia. It wasn’t until a 1903-1906 expedition led by Roald Amundsen, who would also lead the first expedition to reach the South Pole, that the route was successfully navigated. Amundsen’s route took him past the northern coast of Baffin Island, and onwards to Alaska.
Having played such a role in the annals of exploration, it is no surprise that a Baffin Island expedition offers the prospect of far more intrepid exploits than does Churchill. Just 10,000 people live here in an area the size of Spain, and the vast majority of the land is a rugged, mountainous and largely untouched wilderness. This is ideal for the adventurous and those serious about photography, with spectacular scenery and bears perched on icebergs providing truly epic photo opportunities. Bear in mind that as you’ll be tracking the bears on foot, a long lens combined with decent camera equipment that will stand up to the elements is essential. This is not the trip for people wanting to shoot on their iPhone!
Tracking the bears through this hostile habitat, with expert Inuit guides, is about as close to an authentic experience as you can get in the field of polar bear ecotourism. With temperatures rarely rising above -20°C on “warm” days and reaching as low as -40°C in some cases, your physical endurance will be tested; and through all this, you’ll be staying in a tented camp.
A trip like this, one remote in the extreme, will also test you mentally. You’ll have to be willing to forsake most creature comforts, and be content with living for days in the wilderness, hundreds of miles from the nearest hub of civilisation. There will be a lot of waiting around for the bears, there will be few opportunities for other activities, and there will be a lot of silence. Nothing but the sound of your frozen breath, the crunch of the snow under your boots, the wind whipping around the natural granite amphitheatres you pass through, and, in time, the whisper of “bear” from the lips of your guide.
A Baffin Island expedition is not for everyone, but it offers an experience matched by few other places on earth. Additional benefits include the chance of witnessing the Northern Lights, the ability to fly drones for aerial photography/videography (not allowed in most other polar bear areas) and, perhaps most thrilling, a good chance of seeing polar bear mothers with their young cubs, just a few weeks after they emerge from their dens, blinking in the Arctic sunlight.